Sikkim III

After almost 2 months of inactivity here, I finally get myself to write something. And I guess the best thing right now would be to complete the Sikkim travelogue. I know it is too late to blog about it but just for the sake of keeping an account of the empyrean peregrination , it is a task worth taking up right now.
Continued from Sikkim II
Friday/Saturday
After previewing the pics of the trip on Thursday night , everyone agreed to one thing.
Over the years, of all the places that had undergone scrutiny to qualify for the perfect honeymoon abode , this one was certainly somewhere at the top. The feeling of being totally cut off from the rest of the world , being constantly guarded by the behemoth conifer-covered mountains , and cool weather in the surreal landscape definitely did something to the pheromones.
With these thoughts in our minds, we went off to our beds only to be awoken early morning by a breathless friend imploring us to leave our warm beds and have a look at the scene outside the window.It turned out that because of the dark and rain last night we were quite oblivious to the fact that the place where we were staying had snow covered mountains all around. Since we were not very high up altitude-wise, the snow from the mountains was misting up as the sun rays fell upon the snow. The scene was surreal becuase as the sun rose up , we were watching the dark shadows on the mountains being replaced by the light. An imaginary line separating the dark and sunlit area was moving ahead as we watched blissfully , the glory of nature , darkness giving way to light. To one of the more religious friend of the lot, it felt like the arrival of God on Earth unveiling himself and suffusing everything with light. Although I am not used to wake up early in the morning , this morning would certainly go down as one of the best early mornings I have managed.



Breakfast call from the guide, brought us back from the 'neverland' like state.
The plan for the day was charted out on the breakfast table. We would be moving on to the top of the Yumthang valley and then on the way back pay a visit to the Yumthang hot spring.
The rain last night was a sure sign that we would find a lot of snow at the top. A 4 wheel drive Sumo was arranged to ensure we reach the top without much trouble.We had a light breakfast to stay out of trouble on way.
As far as I remember it took us around 1 hour through the curvaceous roads to reach a point where all the 2 wheel drive vehicles had given up as a result of knee deep snow. On the way we were witness to some mindblowing picturesque scenery , prompting the digicams into action.






We were quite happy that the guide had arranged for a 4 wheel drive , and every 2 wheel drive vehicle that we left behind made us even more proud of the acuity of our guide. But these blithe moments were shortlived as, not many curves up a number of 4 wheel drive cars had also given up. The knee deep snow was making it impossible for the vehicles to move forward. On snowy roads it is the first vehicle that has to apply the maximum power. The trail left by its tyres ensures that the following cars do not have much trouble cruising through. But the point where all the cars had stopped had a huge deep blanket of snow as far as we could see. It was also rumoured that there is a blizzard a few kms ahead and it is not safe to move further up.
We were obviously quite dissapointed . We were 11 kms from the destination and there was just no way we were going to reach there on foot without some sort of help from locals. And all we could see there were Indian and foreign tourists. So we started doing what all the others were doing . Throwing snow balls at each other. But after about 2 minutes it all seemed so inane . I mean playing in the snow was cool but then after spending so much time in the snow , we still had not seen any of the famed "points" that were in the plan initially.
We decided to move on.
Atleast till a point when we can clearly see the blizzard and then we would make a U turn.
The cauldron of youth was bubbling with enthusiasm and nothing, not even a blizzard , was going to stop what we had decided.
Any adult would surmise that at that point we crossed the line that divides courage and foolishness.
I dont know if that was right on his part , but seeing our enthusiasm, even the guide decided that if that is what everyone wants we can take a chance. And taking the guide with us was probably the sanest decision that day.
So we started , eight of us , quite oblivious of what we would go through in the next few
hours.As we walked through we left behind about 10 vehicles of tourists and our water bottles.

Both these facts were realised after we were about 2 kms uphill , and the latter was the one which we were more concerned about. Obviously we were not going to get any taps or handpumps on the way. And strange as it may sound , as soon these realisations dawned on us everyone started feeling thirsty. All we had with us was a sea of snow blinding us with its brightness.
But there was no going back from here now. The thrill of being at the top in the next or the next or the next hour was enough for us to keep moving. The more enthusiastic ones were moving at the front , making fresh boot marks on the snow covered road as they moved , making it easier for the lesser fit ones to move ahead. The more concerned of the lot kept behind with the lesser fit ones just to be together on this perilious meandering. The snow was knee deep when we started and as we moved on, it became even more difficult to move fast. Breathing became a strenous job. But stopping in between was no option now, not because we were still as enthusiastic as we were when we had started, but because stopping now meant getting separated from the ones who were ahead. Another reason was that as long as we kept moving we did not feel much pain , but whenever we stopped to take breath , the legs started aching and we started feeling the exertion. A light breakfast in the early morning was also not helping us much right now. But we kept moving . We had no choice . Or so we thought.

When around 6 kms were left we met a vehicle with tourists inside coming down hill. The guide stopped the vehicle and talked in the vernacular with the driver.He enquired about the situation at the top. And the answer he got was quite grim. It was snowing quite heavily at the top and there was only a miniscule chance , that we were going to get something to eat up there. This gave a jolt to the zeal of a few. The guide said that now either we can go back from here or move on for two more kms to a shortcut till the Yumthang hot spring. Though we were staggering a bit but still we decided that we move further up. The snow was getting in our head. Quite literally, now that it had started snowing lightly. The breeze was also getting unfriendly.
After about half an hour of further toil we reached the point where there supposedly was a shortcut to the Yumthang spring. But all we saw there was snow. We were still 4 kms from the destination but we had no clue where we were actually headed. The guide had. After looking at the clouds approaching us from one direction he surmised that the weather was going to worsen in the next few hours and there was no point now going further up. One or two members revolted and said that it was foolish to return after coming so close( as if it was not foolish enough already).
After about 10 minutes of brusque discussion it was decided that the group is going to go together wherever we went. Eventually it transpired (with a little help from the warning of the guide that he will leave us at this point and go no further) that we started moving down.We had thought that going down would be easier than coming up. It could have been, if we were not as thirsty and hungry as we were then. The beguiling breeze was also now taking its toll on us. The weather was definitely getting worse as it was getting darker and snowing harder.
To make matters worse, the trail that we had left behind was fast getting covered by fresh snow
making it dangerous to walk in the knee deep snow. Intuition , bridges, trees and milestones were the only things that were guiding us now to stay on the road , and not move on to the sides that looked almost at the same level. A wrong step there could mean going down as if you are in a quagmire. Thankfully there were enough trees on the way to help us through.
But there was another problem now. We were really very very thirsty , toiling hard now for almost 3 hours. So we did the next obvious thing. We ate snow, knowing very well that it will lower the body temperature and could be dangerous , but we had to do that. All i remember now is that it did not help much and within a few seconds the throat was as dry as before.
At this point we were separated into two groups. Three guys including the guide were ahead of us. The rest stayed together about half a km behind. Now that it could have been a question of life , reaching back anyhow was more important than anything else. One group went ahead to make sure that the Sumo does not return back before we reach it. One thing that we did not stop doing even in those moments was making full use of the digicams.

When about 5 kms were left , the snow at the sides was deep enough to cover the milestones completely. Although on the road, the snow was melting at the places where the group ahead of us had kept their feet. The sumo coming downhill had also left quite a deep track clear of snow ,
and even for the fresh snow it was taking time to cover it up.At this point we had started lying to the chubby guy in the group whenever he asked the distance to be covered. If it was 5 kms we told him 4 and so on. We were cracking PJs to lighten

up...calculating probailities of reaching back alive with detailed clauses and conditions. We talked
of helicopters coming to rescue us. We talked of impending avalanches on the way, which almost became a reality when we encountered snow coming down rapidly from a 70degree elevated mountain. Only the snow balls were not big enough till then.
As far as we could see it was all white . The river that we had left behind on our right had turned into a brook. For a while I thought of the movie Vertical Limit. Although the whole exercise was strenous , I was enjoying in some way thinking of making a snow trekking trip some day if we reach back alive. And all this time it was snowing incessantly. After walking for another 1 hour , we heard the honking of the horn of the Sumo round a corner. Immediately all the tired feets sprang into action and we ran towards the vehicles.
The place that we had left with more than 10 vehicles and 50 odd tourists was now covered with even more snow and just one vehicle inching forward. The driver had almost decided to leave when the first group reached the vehicle.
We made it back , satiating ourselves with everything edible in the vehicle. Never had water tasted so sweet.
Finally we moved downhill at the optimum speed.
We reached back to our hotel room totally enervated and slept like there was no tomorrow, only to wake up for dinner. Played cards for a while and then slept again.

The next day was quite uneventful as compared to this. We moved downto Gangtok on way meeting Ninzi again when we stopped for lunch.This time she was ready to go to shcool.
Here the guide also showed us his tattoo of an ant which symbolises hard work in the region.

Once in Gangtok we visited a few places in the city.

Rumtek Monastery is worth mentioning here.
Situated at about 20 kms from Gangtok, it is a beautiful peaceful monastery covering a much larger space than Enchey Monastery that we had covered already. It was prayer time when we reached there , and we spent a few minutes inside the monastery. The sound of the gong still reverberates through me when I recall it.
But the high point of the trip was the visit to Yumthang valley.
After almost 4 hours of rigourous toil we made a very adventurous trip. We walked almost 15 kms in those 4 hours braving apathetic cold weather, spine chilling cold wind that made breathing an exertion, hunger , thirst and impending threats of blizzard and avalanches. And we were still alive. The feeling was awesome. Foolish but awesome. And if someone tells me that we will return alive after another such trip , I might give a serious thought to do all this again.
The guide had said that he had never seen such a group before , and although he had been in trekking trips before , he would never forget this one ever. And he would never forget our group.
We shared his feelings completely.
Song -- Aadat(Jal)






























